Kauai is the oldest of Hawaii's main islands, around five million years old, and time and rain have carved it into something extraordinary: knife-edge sea cliffs, a canyon of red rock and some of the greenest valleys on Earth. It is the Garden Isle, slower and quieter than Oahu or Maui.
The Nā Pali Coast
For about 27 kilometres (17 miles) on the north-west side of the island, green cliffs plunge straight into the ocean, cut by hanging valleys and waterfalls. No road crosses this coast. You can see it from the sea on a boat tour, from the air by helicopter, or on foot along the Kalalau Trail.
Entry to Hāʻena State Park, where the trail begins, requires an advance reservation. The first stretch to Hanakāpīʻai Beach is a popular day hike; going further requires a camping permit. Never swim at Hanakāpīʻai: the currents there are deadly.
Waimea Canyon
Waimea Canyon, nicknamed the Grand Canyon of the Pacific, is around 16 kilometres long and up to about 900 metres deep, its walls striped in red, rust and green. A road climbs along its rim to Kōkeʻe State Park, where trails lead through forest to viewpoints such as the Kalalau Lookout, looking down into the valleys of Nā Pali.
Hanalei and the North Shore
Hanalei Bay, a wide crescent of sand backed by mountains and waterfalls, is one of the most beautiful places in Hawaii. The valley behind it is planted with taro, and the road there crosses a series of one-lane bridges, where local etiquette is to let a whole group of cars cross before you go. In summer the north shore is often calm enough for snorkelling at beaches such as Tunnels; in winter the surf can be dangerous.
Poʻipū and the south
The south shore around Poʻipū is the sunniest part of the island, with family-friendly beaches and resorts. Endangered Hawaiian monk seals often haul out on the sand here to rest. Keep well back and give them space; disturbing them is against the law. Nearby, the Spouting Horn blowhole shoots seawater high into the air.
Getting around
Līhuʻe Airport (LIH) is the main gateway. One main highway runs most of the way around the island, but it stops on both sides of Nā Pali, so you cannot drive a full loop. A rental car is the easiest way to explore.
When to go
Kauai is warm year-round, but it is also wet: the summit of Mount Waiʻaleʻale is among the rainiest places on Earth. Rain is heavier in winter, especially on the north shore, while summer usually brings calmer seas and the best conditions for boat trips along Nā Pali.